How to photograph star trails, and what the tutorials disagree about

Put the camera on a tripod, shoot short exposures back to back with the smallest gap the camera allows, and stack them afterwards; the sky turns 15.041° an hour, so a two-hour sequence draws a 30° arc whatever else you change. Everything after that first sentence is detail, and this page gives the detail twice over: what twenty-four published guides recommend, and what one real night measured on our own files actually did.

A star-trail stack: concentric arcs turning about the celestial pole over a dark tree line and hay bales in a field
380 frames, 95 minutes of open shutter across a 116-minute session, Sony A7C and a 24 mm lens at f/1.6, ISO 5000, 15 seconds each. This is the file the stacker produced, resized for the web and otherwise untouched — see what was not done to it.

Two things to know before you read on

The pictures here are not retouched. They are what came out of a stacker, resized. They are not the most beautiful star trails on the internet and they are not trying to be. A great deal of what you have seen elsewhere is composited, colour-graded, or has a foreground photographed at a different time of day. That is a legitimate craft and this is a different one: showing the picture the process actually makes so the numbers around it mean something.

Where the tutorials disagree, this page says so rather than picking one and sounding confident. Six real contradictions run through the published advice, and the table at the end names each one with the sources on both sides.

1. What a star trail is, in one minute

The stars are not moving. You are, with the ground, once every sidereal day — 23 hours 56 minutes and 4 seconds. That works out at 15.041 degrees per hour, and it is the only number in star-trail photography that nothing you own can change. Point a fixed camera at the sky, leave the shutter open, and every star draws an arc that long.

So arc length is a question about elapsed time, not about exposure, aperture or ISO. This is the single most useful thing to internalise, because it decides how long you are standing in a field.

How far the sky turns while you wait
Time on siteArc drawnWhat it looks likeFrames at 30 s
15 minutes3.8°Short dashes. Reads as a mistake, not a picture.~30
30 minutes7.5°Clearly deliberate. The usual minimum anyone publishes.~60
1 hour15.0°The common floor. Arcs are obvious; circles are not yet closed.~120
2 hours30.1°A twelfth of a circle. Most published tutorials aim here.~240
4 hours60.2°A sixth of a circle. Long, confident sweeps.~480
8 hours120.3°A third of a circle. A whole winter night.~960

The frame counts assume no gap between exposures, which is never quite true. Our own example night below ran at 81 % duty cycle and still produced continuous arcs; see the duty-cycle number.

2. Before you go: where, and when

How dark does it actually need to be?

Less dark than for the Milky Way, and this is good news. A star trail is built out of the brightest stars in the sky, and those survive a raised background that would erase faint nebulosity entirely. A stack that equalises each frame's sky before combining also fights the glow directly. You will get more stars and better colour from a darker site, but a Bortle 4 rural field is a perfectly good place to learn.

A rural European sky at roughly Bortle 4: teal from light pollution, few stars, satellite trails crossing the frame
Roughly Bortle 4, a rural European field — the sort of sky most people can actually reach. The background is lifted and coloured by distant towns, and there are already artificial trails crossing it. Star trails work here.
A Bortle 2 sky over Tenerife: the Milky Way clearly structured with visible dust lanes, thousands of stars
The same photographer, roughly Bortle 2, on Tenerife. Every star in the frame above is still in this one; there are simply thousands more of them, because the background they sit against is far darker. That difference matters enormously for the Milky Way and much less for star trails, which are made from the bright end. What light pollution actually does to a frame takes the pair apart.
What to check before driving anywhere
QuestionWhere to lookWhat you are reading
How dark is that spot? lightpollutionmap.info VIIRS satellite radiance, a modelled zenith sky-brightness layer, and crowd-sourced meter readings. Note that SQM and SQM-L readings are not directly comparable, so the pins mix two instruments.
Has my local sky got worse? Dark Site Finder The same area on selectable historical layers, which is the quickest way to see a decade of change.
Will it be clear? Clear Outside Hour-by-hour low, medium and high cloud in three separate rows. High thin cloud is the one that quietly ruins a stack, and it is the row people skip.
Is the air any good? Astrospheric or meteoblue's seeing forecast Transparency and seeing as separate numbers. For trails transparency matters and seeing barely does — you are not resolving anything small.
Where will the pole sit in my frame? Sky Director Both celestial poles, the horizon and the arcs your exposure and sequence will actually draw, projected on your own camera and lens for a location and time you type in yourself.
How long, how many frames, how much card? Star Trail Planner Trail length at different places in the frame, the gap in pixels, the frame count and the storage the sequence will need.
Sky Director showing sun and moon altitude and the three twilight boundaries for a typed location and time
Sky Director, showing where the Sun and Moon actually are for a location and time you enter by hand. The boundary that matters is astronomical twilight: north of about 49° it never arrives at midsummer, so there is no true darkness to shoot in whatever the cloud forecast says.
Star Trail Planner showing the celestial pole placed on a frame, with predicted trail length, frame gap, sequence count and storage
Star Trail Planner. Place the pole where you intend it in the frame and it reports how long the trails will be at different places in that frame, how big the gap between frames will be in pixels, how many exposures the session needs and how much card that is. Cheaper to find out here than at 02:00.

The Moon is a setting, not an obstacle

A bright Moon washes out faint stars, and it also lights your foreground for free. Both are true, and which one matters depends on the picture you want. A new Moon gives the most stars and a black foreground you will have to light yourself. A quarter Moon low in the sky gives fewer stars and a landscape that looks like a landscape. What actually counts is the Moon's altitude during your sequence, not the phase printed on a calendar: a full Moon below the horizon is no Moon at all.

Season, and the trap at high latitude

Winter nights are long, cold and often clear, and cold air holds less moisture. Summer nights are short, and above about 49° of latitude midsummer contains no astronomical darkness at all — that threshold runs through Paris and Vancouver, so it catches far more people than they expect. The window widens quickly with latitude: around 52° it lasts roughly two months, and at 60° about four. Anyone in Britain, Scandinavia, Canada or southern Patagonia should check for real darkness before planning a summer night, because the sky can simply refuse.

The free half of the satellite problem

Satellites shine by reflected sunlight, so they are only visible while you are in darkness and they, several hundred kilometres up, are not. That geometry holds for roughly the first and last couple of hours of the night, and around local midnight most low-orbit satellites are inside the Earth's shadow and go dark. A survey of Zwicky Transient Facility images found that 64 per cent of Starlink trails were recorded during twilight, and about 70 per cent of them below 40° of elevation (Mróz et al., 2022).

The practical version: start an hour later than you were going to, and point away from the horizon. That throws away most of your satellite passes and costs nothing. It is the least-repeated useful advice in the whole subject.

3. What to carry

The kit, in order of how much it decides the outcome
ItemWhy it mattersWhat people get wrong
A tripod that will not move for two hours Every frame must land on the same pixels. A shift of a few pixels halfway through turns one set of arcs into two. Raising the centre column. Keep it down. In wind, add weight low and rigidly — a bag hanging on a hook swings, and a swinging weight is worse than no weight. Rocks on the feet or a strap to the ground beat the hook.
An intervalometer or a locking remote release This is the piece that actually makes the picture continuous. You need the next frame to start the instant the last one ends, hundreds of times, without touching the camera. Assuming the in-camera interval timer is enough. Many of them insert a fixed pause, and some cannot be set below the exposure length. A cheap external intervalometer, or continuous drive with the remote locked down, removes the decision entirely.
Power A dead battery at frame 200 leaves a permanent gap in every arc. Cold. A battery that lasts all evening indoors will not. Bring several, keep the spares in an inside pocket, and use a grip or a dummy-battery power bank if the camera supports one.
A dew solution A fogged front element does not announce itself. You find out at home. Relying on the lens hood alone. It helps, and on a humid night it is not enough. A resistive heater strip on a power bank is the reliable answer; a chemical hand warmer rubber-banded to the barrel is the cheap one. Check the glass with a torch every half hour.
A fast card with room to spare Four separate things put a gap in your trails: in-camera noise reduction, the intervalometer's own pause, the buffer clearing, and the card finishing the write. Only the last two are about the card, and they are the two nobody checks. Filling it. The 380-frame night on this page is 18 GB of uncompressed RAW — work that out before you leave, not at 01:00.
A wide, fast lens Wide gets sky and ground in one frame; fast lets you keep exposures short. Shooting wide open and being surprised by the corners. Fast glass smears corner stars into little wings, and stacking cannot undo it — see why corner stars look like seagulls. A stop down usually fixes most of it.
A red torch, and something warm You are going to be standing still in the dark for two hours. Underestimating it. This is the most common reason a sequence ends early.

4. The settings

Three recipes, by how many of these you have done. They differ less than you would expect, because the sky does not care how experienced you are.

Three starting points
First time out You have done a few Difficult sky
ModeManualManualManual
Shutter30 s20–30 s10–20 s
ApertureWidest, or one stop inOne stop from wide openWide open
ISO800800–16001600–5000
White balance4000 K, manual3400–4300 K, manual3400–4300 K, manual
IntervalShutter + 2 sShutter + 1 sShutter + 1–3 s
Frames120 (one hour)240–360as many as the night allows
FormatRAWRAWRAW
Dark framesskip them the first time10–20 at the end, lens cap on10–20 at each end

Why ISO is an aesthetic decision

ISO 800 is the most-quoted starting point in the published tutorials, and the reason it is a starting point rather than an answer is that ISO trades star count against star colour. Push it and more faint stars clear the noise floor, so the sky fills up — and the bright stars saturate toward white, so Betelgeuse stops looking orange. Pull it back and you get fewer stars with more colour in them. Several tutorials state the trade in opposite directions and both are right; they simply want different pictures.

Trail brightness is decided per frame, not by the night

This one surprises people, and it follows directly from how the stacking works. A star-trail stack keeps the brightest value each pixel ever had, not the sum of them. So adding frames makes your trails longer and does nothing at all to make them brighter: the brightness of any point on an arc is whatever the one frame that drew it recorded there.

Two consequences worth carrying outside with you. Aperture and ISO are your only brightness controls, and they act on every frame equally, so a sequence that is one stop under is one stop under for four hours. And a faint star that never clears the noise in a single 30-second frame will not appear in the stack however many frames you take — which is the exact opposite of deep-sky work, where the whole point of adding frames is to lift things that no single frame could show. If you want more stars in the picture, you change ISO or aperture; if you want longer arcs, you stay out later.

This is also why the sky background does not average away. A maximum samples the top of the noise at every pixel instead of the middle of it, so the raw background gets noisier as frames accumulate. Fighting that is a job for the stacker, not for the camera — per-frame sky equalisation is what does it.

The number nobody publishes: duty cycle

Every guide tells you to keep the gap between frames short. None of them tells you what "short" means, because the answer depends on the frame length. The useful figure is shutter-open time divided by the interval.

The same two-second gap, at three frame lengths
ExposureGapDuty cycleResult
4 minutes2 s99.2 %Invisible.
30 seconds2 s93.8 %Fine at normal viewing sizes.
15 seconds2 s88.2 %Visible at 100 % on a long arc.
15 seconds15 s50 %A dashed line. This is what one tutorial actually recommends.

Above 90 % you can stop thinking about it. Below it, duty cycle stops being the whole answer and the question becomes how far the sky moved during the gap in pixels, which depends on your focal length and where in the frame you are looking — the example night below sat at 81 % and still drew continuous arcs, because three seconds at 24 mm is less than a pixel. The arithmetic that turns a gap in seconds into a gap in pixels is a page of its own. A good stacker can close small gaps afterwards, but it can only interpolate across what you did not record.

Milky Way exposure calculator comparing NPF, 300, 500 and 600 rule shutter times and the predicted star movement in pixels for a given sensor and lens
The Milky Way exposure calculator exists to answer the opposite question — how long you can expose before stars stop being points — and it is worth a look anyway, because it shows what each rule means in pixels on your own sensor. For trails you want to be on the wrong side of every one of those numbers.

What to switch off, and why

Six settings that quietly ruin sequences
SettingStateWhat happens if you leave it
Long-exposure noise reductionOffThe camera shoots a second dark frame of equal length after every exposure and subtracts it. Your 30-second frame now occupies 60 seconds, the duty cycle halves, and the trails dash. This is the single most common cause of dotted trails.
Auto ISOOffBrightness steps between frames, and the stack shows the steps.
Auto white balanceOffColour drifts across the night. The stack combines the drift into the sky.
Image stabilisationOffOn a tripod a stabiliser hunts for movement that is not there and adds its own.
AutofocusOff, after focusingThe camera refocuses on nothing in the dark and you lose the rest of the sequence.
In-camera lens correctionsOff if offeredA baked-in geometric correction resamples the frame, which is exactly the wrong thing to do to a one-pixel star before stacking.

Focusing, which is where nights are lost

Switch to manual focus, point at the brightest star you can find, magnify it as far as live view goes, and turn the ring until the dot is as small as it will get. Then nudge past and come back, so you know you found the minimum rather than a plateau. Two checks worth making: confirm the dot is a star and not a hot pixel by watching whether it changes size as you turn the ring — a hot pixel will not — and do not trust the engraved infinity mark, because most modern lenses focus past infinity by design and the mark is not a stop. Once it is right, tape the ring.

If your foreground is close enough to matter, you have a genuine conflict, and the honest answers are either to focus at the hyperfocal distance and accept slightly softer stars, or to shoot the foreground as a separate frame at a different focus and blend it. There is no setting that resolves it.

The 500 rule tells you the longest exposure before stars trail — and for this subject you want the opposite of what it protects →

5. Where to point the camera

This is the compositional decision, and it is entirely determined by geometry. The sky turns about one axis; where that axis sits relative to your frame decides the shape of every arc in it.

Diagram of four aiming choices: at the celestial pole giving concentric circles, east or west giving diagonal rising and setting lines, and the celestial equator giving long straight trails
The same sky, four aims. Nothing about the camera changes between these — only which part of a rotating sphere is inside the frame.
Aim, and what you get
Point atShapeTrail lengthGood for
The celestial poleConcentric circles about a still centreShortest near the centre, longest at the edgesThe classic vortex. Needs the pole comfortably inside the frame.
Just off the poleWide sweeping curves that do not closeMediumThe most common real framing, because the pole is rarely where the landscape is.
East or westDiagonal lines rising or fallingLongMotion and direction. Stars rise in the east and set in the west, which reads as going somewhere.
The celestial equator, due south from the northNear-straight parallel linesLongest of allGraphic, minimal compositions. This is the fastest-moving part of the sky.

Finding the pole, in both hemispheres

In the north, extend the line from Merak through Dubhe — the two stars at the end of the Plough's bowl — about five times, and you land on Polaris. Polaris sits about 0.7° from the true pole, which is invisible at any wide-angle focal length and only matters if you are polar-aligning a tracker.

In the south there is no useful pole star. Sigma Octantis is within about a degree of the pole but shines at magnitude 5.5, which is barely naked-eye at a dark site and hopeless anywhere else. Southern shooters use geometry instead: extend the long axis of the Southern Cross, from Gacrux through Acrux, by about four and a half times its own length — roughly 27° — and cross-check it against the perpendicular bisector of the line joining Alpha and Beta Centauri. Where the two lines meet is the pole. The practical consequence is that the hub of a southern vortex is genuinely empty; there is no bright anchor star sitting in the middle of it.

The pole's altitude equals your latitude. That is exact, not an approximation.
WhereLatitudePole sitsConsequence for framing
Tromsø~70°N~70° upNearly overhead. Full circles are easy; getting ground in the same frame is not.
Edinburgh~56°N~56° upHigh. Circles sit well clear of the horizon.
Berlin~52°N~52° upThe classic European look.
New York~41°N~41° upCircles centred halfway up the northern sky.
Los Angeles~34°N~34° upLow enough to place the hub over a landscape feature.
Tenerife~28°N~28° upLow. Part of the circle is cut off by the horizon.
Singapore~1°Non the horizonNothing is circumpolar. Every star rises and sets in near-parallel arcs.
Sydney~34°SPolaris never risesThe south celestial pole is ~34° above the southern horizon.

The ground under the sky

Every tutorial in the survey that discusses composition says the same thing, and they are right: arcs alone are not a photograph. A tree line, a ruin, a lone building, a ridge — something with a recognisable edge gives the circles a scale and a reason. Roughly seventy per cent sky is one stated ratio; the real rule is that the foreground should be worth looking at on its own.

If you want to light it, do it on the first frame and the last frame only, at low power, from off to one side. A lighten stack keeps the brightest value at every pixel, so lighting one frame lights the whole picture — and lighting all of them makes the foreground look like a film set.

6. One real night, measured

Everything above is what people recommend. This is what one sequence actually was, read out of the RAW files themselves rather than remembered. Every one of the 380 frames was shot at 15 seconds, f/1.6 and ISO 5000, and the sequence ran from 00:33:32 to 02:30:02 on 13 August 2026.

13 August 2026, a field in rural Europe
FactValueNote
Camera and lensSony A7C, 24 mm f/1.4Full frame, 24 MP
Exposure15 s at f/1.6, ISO 5000Identical on every frame sampled across the night
Frames380
Started / ended00:33:32 → 02:30:02116 minutes 30 seconds on site
Shutter open95 minutes380 × 15 s
Interval18 s277 of 379 intervals exactly 18 s, 90 at 19 s
Gap3 sDuty cycle 81 %
Sky rotation29.2°116.5 minutes at 15.041°/h
Pixel scale50.8 arcseconds per pixel35.6 mm across 6024 pixels at 24 mm
Star movement per frame4.4 pixelsAt the celestial equator, in 15 seconds

Two things about that table are worth arguing with, and both are deliberate.

15 seconds and ISO 5000 sit outside the tutorial consensus, which is 30 seconds at ISO 800. Short bright frames are a legitimate trade: you lose star colour and gain resilience, because a car headlight or a gust ruins fifteen seconds rather than a minute. At f/1.6 under a light-polluted sky the background is already the limiting factor well before 15 seconds, so a longer exposure would mostly have collected more town glow. It is not the recipe to start with; it is a defensible answer to that particular field.

An 81 % duty cycle is lower than it should be. Three seconds is a fifth of a 15-second frame and a twenty-fifth of a 75-second one, so short frames pay five times over for the same pause. The arcs came out continuous anyway, because a 3-second gap at this focal length is under a pixel of sky movement near the pole and about 0.9 pixels at the equator — which is the whole point of doing the arithmetic instead of guessing.

A single 15-second frame from the same sequence: pinpoint stars, a teal light-polluted sky, hay bales lit red, and one straight satellite streak
One frame of the 380. Pinpoint stars, a teal cast from the towns, and — already, in a single 15-second exposure — one straight artificial streak across the middle of the sky.

7. The lines that are not stars

This is the part of star-trail photography that has genuinely changed in the last five years, and no tutorial written before about 2021 accounts for it.

Jonathan McDowell's satellite catalogue counted 12,881 Starlink satellites launched and 11,093 still in orbit on 31 August 2026 (Planet4589), and Starlink is one constellation among several. CelesTrak put the total tracked population at about 35,000 objects on orbit in early September 2026. Published forward plans across all announced programmes run to well over a million objects. These numbers go stale quickly and are worth checking rather than quoting.

The measured consequence is not speculative. The SPHEREx mission analysed about 6,000 exposures collected in 2025 and found that 73 per cent of them already carried a satellite trail, averaging 2.18 trails per exposure (Borlaff et al., 2026). That measurement matched the prediction made in advance of it, which is the part worth worrying about: the models forecasting a worse sky are working correctly. A study of two decades of Hubble images found 2.7 per cent of its individual exposures crossed, at a typical exposure length of eleven minutes (Kruk et al., 2023), and the Rubin Observatory expects around a tenth of all its images to carry a trail.

Telling one from the other in your own frames

Aircraft, satellite and meteor, in a single frame
AircraftSatelliteMeteor
StructureA solid line flanked by dashes — steady lights draw the line, strobes punch the beadsOne continuous streak, no beadingOne streak, in one frame only
ColourColoured: red port, green starboard, white strobesNeutral white or blue-white — it is reflected sunlightOften coloured, varies
Brightness along itPulsing and unevenRuler-flatBrightens, peaks, fades
EndsUsually edge to edgeOften begins or ends abruptly mid-frame, where it entered the Earth's shadowTapers at both ends
WhenAll night, wherever people flyConcentrated in the hours after dusk and before dawnUnpredictable; more in showers

There is a fourth thing you will see and it is not in that table, because what identifies it is timing rather than shape. A tumbling satellite can catch the sun on a flat surface and flash: a bright dot or short dash that exists in exactly one frame. The test that separates a glint from a hot pixel is to look at the frames either side — a hot pixel sits at the same place on the sensor every time, and a glint happens once, at a position in the sky.

The beading has an exact cause. Aviation regulations require an anti-collision light with an effective flash frequency of not less than 40 and not more than 100 cycles per minute (14 CFR 25.1401), which is about once a second. At one flash per second, a 30-second frame records roughly thirty separate bright beads along the aircraft's path. In a lighten stack, where the brightest value at each pixel wins, every one of those beads is welded permanently into the finished picture.

Which is worse depends on where you stand. On 23 July 2026 Flightradar24 reported tracking 153,359 commercial flights in a single day, a record, and 287,364 flights of every kind (Flightradar24). Aircraft fly all night and they fly where people live, which is where most readers of this page will be standing. Satellites are concentrated at dusk and dawn but they are everywhere, including the dark site you drove three hours to reach, and their numbers are growing much faster than air traffic. Aircraft are the bigger nuisance today, near people. Satellites are the bigger problem on trend.

What the usual fixes cost

Sigma clipping — discarding the outlier bright samples at each pixel — does remove satellite trails, and it removes your meteors with them, because a meteor is statistically identical to the thing you are rejecting. Gap filling in a trail stacker bridges missing time between frames; it was never designed to delete an intruder and will not. Content-aware fill invents arcs that do not follow the concentric geometry of the real ones, which is visible the moment anyone looks closely.

The approach that keeps the sky is to find each straight track by measuring it, then repair its footprint from a neighbouring frame in which the same patch of sky was not crossed. What replaces the line is not painted or interpolated — it is what the camera itself recorded one frame earlier or later. How that measurement works, and where it declines to act is its own page.

Here is what that came to on the night at the top of this page. The stacker's own straight-line search was run over the 380 frames at the sensitivity it ships on, with nothing overridden: 309 of the 380 frames carried at least one straight track, 739 tracks were found in total, and 488 of them were removed automatically. Not one was refused because the repair could not reach it. The other 251 were flagged for review rather than deleted, which is the tool declining to act on its own evidence: the more frames a track appears in, the more likely it is something you meant to keep.

A crop of the star-trail stack with a straight track left in: one bright diagonal line cutting corner to corner across the concentric arcs
Straight-line removal off. One bright diagonal cuts across the arcs from corner to corner, and a fainter one crosses the top left. The tool measures the line; it does not claim to know whether an aircraft or a satellite drew it.
The same crop with straight-line removal on: the bright diagonal is gone and the arcs run unbroken through where it was
The same 380 frames were stacked twice with only the straight-line removal changed, and one pair of brightness levels was applied to both, so this is a comparison rather than two different edits. The diagonal is gone and the arcs run unbroken through where it was, because what replaced it is the same patch of sky out of frames that were not crossed. A short residual is still visible near the bottom edge, and that is the point: it is one of the 251 the tool flagged rather than deleted.

8. What happens to the folder afterwards

Stacking star trails is conceptually simple: for every pixel, keep the brightest value any frame recorded there. A star that moved across the frame is bright somewhere new in each frame, so the maximum draws its whole path. That operator is called lighten, or maximum, and it is why star trails are the easiest kind of stacking to do badly and hard to do well.

Two things it does that nobody mentions. It keeps every bright intruder, perfectly, for the same reason it keeps the stars. And because it samples the upper tail of the noise at each pixel rather than averaging it away, a plain maximum makes the sky background noisier as you add frames, not cleaner — the opposite of what stacking does everywhere else in astrophotography. Equalising each frame's sky level before taking the maximum is what stops a brightening cloud or a rising Moon from winning the whole picture. Why a plain lighten stack loses your faintest trails has the measurements.

Stack your own night in the browser The four steps, start to finish →

9. What was not done to these pictures

Being precise about this is the point of the section, because "straight out of camera" is claimed constantly and almost never true.

The finished stack on this page
DoneNot done
380 RAW files decoded, demosaiced and white-balanced with the gains the camera itself recorded No conversion from the camera's colour primaries to sRGB. The stacker stops at white balance on purpose, and this is where the magenta comes from.
Combined by lighten, with the straight-line search doing its default job No sky replacement, and no foreground photographed at another time or place.
One black and white point chosen automatically across the whole frame No colour grading, no saturation or vibrance, no split toning.
Resized for the web and saved as JPEG No noise reduction, no sharpening, no star reduction, no composite of any kind.

The result is a magenta-leaning sky, visible noise in the shadows, and hay bales lit an unglamorous red by somebody's torch. All of that is real, and the cast in particular is a decision rather than an accident: a camera's own colour primaries are not sRGB, and converting between them takes a second transform that would sit underneath any judgement you later made about star colour. A finished print would neutralise the cast in about four minutes in any raw editor, and you should — but then it would be a picture about editing, and the numbers on this page would be describing something else.

10. The tutorials, and where they disagree

Twenty-four published guides to star trails were read for this page: photography tutorials, magazine features, two manufacturer pages and the documentation of two stacking programs. Fourteen of them give concrete numbers, and those are below, so you can see the spread rather than take one recipe on trust. Every figure in the table was read from the source's own page, and the two positions this page calls wrong were each re-checked against the original before it said so.

What each source actually recommends
SourceShutterApertureISOGapSession
PhotoPillsMostly 30 sf/2.8–f/41600–6400; 200–400 in light pollution2 s18 min – 5 h
Capture the Atlas30 s – 1 minf/2.8 or widest800–16001 s2–4 h
Lightstalking20–30 sf/2.8 or widest320–640< 1 s60–90 min
NightSkyPix30–60 sWidest300–8001 s30 min +
Peter Zelinka20–30 sf/2.8–f/4800~3 s~2.5 h
Lonely Speck4 minf/4–f/5.6400–800not stated30–60 min
Dave Morrow30–60 sf/2.8–f/5.6500–32001 snot stated
BBC Sky at Night30 s or 3 minWidest~80015 s1–2 h
Nikon USA30 s, 3 min, or 2 hf/5.6200–1000not stated45 min – all night
Photography Life30 sf/2.8–f/5.63200 dark; 100–400 moonlit0.5–1 s90–120 min
Digital Photography School30 sf/4400continuous drivenot stated
Amateur Photographer26–30 sf/2.8800–16002 s2 h +
Fototripper30–40 sf/2.8; f/7.1–f/8 for foreground2000–5000a regulated gap3 h
DarkSky International20–30 sWidest1600–6400not stated1 h +
This page's example night15 sf/1.650003 s116 min

The six real disagreements

Where the published advice genuinely conflicts
QuestionOne sideThe otherOur reading
How big a gap between frames? Under a second, "maybe 30 milliseconds" 15 seconds, "for the sensor to cool down" The 15-second recommendation contradicts its own next sentence and would put you at 50 % duty cycle. Aim above 90 %.
Long-exposure noise reduction Off — eight sources, with the mechanism spelled out On — one manufacturer page Off, when stacking. It is defensible only for a single multi-hour exposure, which is a different technique.
Frame length 20–60 s, thirteen sources 3–5 minutes, three sources Both work. Total elapsed time makes the arc, so 100 × 30 s and 50 × 60 s draw the same trail. Short frames lose less when something goes wrong.
Weighting the tripod in wind Hang your bag from the centre hook Never do that in wind — it swings The second. Add weight low and rigidly, or strap the tripod down.
ISO Low, for star colour High, for star count Not a technical dispute. Decide which picture you want.
Focusing method Magnify a star in live view Use the hyperfocal distance instead Live view on a star for sky-dominant frames; hyperfocal only when a near foreground has to be sharp in the same exposure.

Three claims that recur and are simply wrong: that long-exposure noise reduction only affects JPEGs (it is dark-frame subtraction applied to the raw data, and it doubles frame time regardless of format); that you can set focus by the engraved infinity mark (most modern lenses focus past it); and that focus is best judged by minimising chromatic aberration (colour fringing does not vanish at best focus).

Star-trail questions people actually ask

How long do I have to shoot for a decent star trail?

An hour draws a 15° arc, two hours 30°, four hours 60°. An hour is the usual floor and most published tutorials ask for 90 minutes to two hours; the arc length depends only on how long the sequence ran, not on your exposure, aperture or ISO.

What shutter speed should I use for each frame?

Thirteen of the twenty-four tutorials surveyed here include 30 seconds, and 20 to 60 seconds is the defensible range. Shorter frames at a higher ISO also work and are what our own example night used; what matters is that the frames run back to back, because total elapsed time makes the arc.

Why do my star trails come out dotted instead of continuous?

The sky keeps turning while the shutter is closed, so every gap between frames is a missing piece of arc. The number to watch is duty cycle — shutter-open time divided by the interval. In-camera long-exposure noise reduction is the usual culprit because it doubles the time each frame occupies.

Do I need a dark sky for star trails?

Less than for the Milky Way. Star trails are made from bright stars, and a stack with per-frame sky equalisation copes with a raised background that would erase faint structure. A darker site still gives more stars and better colour, but a Bortle 4 field is a perfectly good place to start.

What ISO should I use?

ISO 800 is the most-quoted starting point across the tutorials surveyed. Higher records more stars and washes star colour out; lower keeps colour and records fewer stars. It is an aesthetic decision more than a technical one, and it is the setting to change when the sky is bright with moon or town light.

One long exposure or many short ones?

Many short ones. Every guide surveyed here that discusses both prefers stacking, for three reasons they state repeatedly: the sensor heats up over a long single exposure, one ruined frame does not cost you the night, and the same sequence is a time-lapse for free.

How do I get the aeroplane and satellite lines out?

Not by sigma clipping, which deletes your meteors along with them. Find each straight track and repair its footprint from a neighbouring frame that was not crossed, so the sky underneath is recorded rather than painted. Starting an hour after dusk also removes most satellite passes for free.

Which white balance should I set?

Set it manually somewhere between about 3400 K and 4300 K, which is where every numeric recommendation in the surveyed tutorials overlaps, and then leave it alone. The exact number matters less than every frame sharing it, because the stack combines them and auto white balance will drift across the night.

If you only remember five things

  1. Time makes the arc. An hour is 15°. Nothing else you set changes that.
  2. Turn long-exposure noise reduction off. It is the usual reason trails come out dotted.
  3. Fix everything and touch nothing. Manual exposure, manual focus, manual white balance, and hands off the camera until it is finished.
  4. Start an hour later. You lose an hour of arc and most of your satellite passes.
  5. Put something in front of the sky. Circles on their own are a diagram.

Then bring the folder back

The stacking runs in this browser tab. Nothing is uploaded, nothing is installed, and the finished screen says how many frames went in, what was left out, and which straight lines were found and what happened to each of them.

Open the stacker Plan the next night →